Katy Trail
By: John Brackman
From Rail to Trail
Massie Creek Bridge by Case, MO. Photo taken By John Brackmam
In 2022, more Missouri residents likely associate the “Katy” more with a walk than a ride.
That’s because, for more than 30 years hikers – and cyclists, runners, and others - have been able the traverse the former Missouri right-of-way of the Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad, routinely referred to as the “Katy.”
Today Missouri officials consider Katy Trail State Park the longest continuous recreational trail in the country and, since it opened in 1990, it has gripped the imagination of walkers both veterans and beginners.
John Brackman, the author of this month’s E-Journal, likely would refer to himself as being a member of the latter. In the following article, he reveals his strategies for walking the trail, in a safe and satisfying manner, during the warmer months of two separate years.
The Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad dates back to 1865, when it was known as the Union Pacific Railway, Southern Branch.
In the late 1890s a subsidiary once known as the Missouri-Kansas-Eastern railroad was established to run on existing MKT rails across the state, through the Missouri River basin.
Augusta, MO trail in the distance Photo taken By John Brackmam
By the time it joined the Union Pacific Railroad in 1988, the Katy served six Midwestern states. Two years later the first stretches of the Katy Trail State Park opened on the Katy’s abandoned right-of-way.
But it had not happened right away.
In 1986 the Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad Co. petitioned the Interstate Commerce Commission for permission to abandon almost 200 miles of right-of-way across much of Missouri. That year the railroad had ceased operation on its Missouri route from St. Charles County in the east to Pettis County in the west.
Missouri state park officials soon acquired the railroad’s right-of-way through a 1983 amendment to the National Trails System Act.
The amendment had allowed railroad rights-of-way to be preserved as recreational trails. This “railroad banking” concept allowed train corridors to be maintained for possible re-use.
Outdoor enthusiasts soon began focusing on the MKT for conservation.
Trail between Marthasville and Augusta, MO Photo taken by John Brackman
Court challenges in 1986 halted the Missouri trail’s development at first. But in February, 1990 the U.S. Supreme Court declined to review an appeals court decision upholding the constitutionality of the “rails to trails” law.
Not long after, Edward D. “Ted” Jones, Jr., the retired senior partner of the St. Louis-based Edward D. Jones Co. brokerage company, along with his wife Pat, pledged $2 million to the Missouri trail project, adding to other donations they had made previously.
The first section of trail opened in 1990 near Rocheport, in mid-Missouri..
That’s where John Brackman finished his first year of walking. A second year would follow.
So, You Want to Walk the Katy?
Perhaps you’re a casual walker who has toyed with the idea of doing something bigger - perhaps walking a trail that seems too long to successfully complete, like the 237-mile Katy Trail that extends almost across all of Missouri.
If you need a bit of encouragement, read on.
When the Katy Trail was born in 1990, I remember thinking that it might be fun to someday attempt to walk and explore at least some of the trail. But being employed full-time, with a family of three active boys, I put that thought in the back of my mind for some other day.
Fast forward to 2016, when the idea again entered my thinking. Having retired four years
earlier with now-grown sons who had ventured out on their own, I had time to reconsider the project that had tempted me many years earlier.
I broached the subject with my family members, who promptly replied “Are you thinking of walking the whole thing?”
I was now almost 70 years old and while I walked the neighborhood for a mile or so almost every day; walking even five miles in a stretch was not something I was sure I could sustain.
My answer was “Well, I don’t think so, but it might be fun to do part of it.”
John Brackman beginning the walk at Clinton, MO
I live in Kansas City and the trail for me “begins” in Clinton, which is 55 miles away.
There was also the matter of logistics. How would I get to the trail, where would I start and where would I end?
Would there be places to stay? How far could I walk in a day? What would I need, what kind of footwear should I buy, and how long would it take to walk the trail?
Like most people who begin to contemplate doing something like this, I initially envisioned starting at one end of the trail and walking until I reached the other end.
There were a lot of questions.
But the answers gradually formed as I made the decision to walk at least a part of the trail - and then actually got going.
So, if you’re contemplating walking all or part of the trail, perhaps you’ll find some
answers in the steps I took to eventually complete the entire trail.
Trail between Clinton City and Pilot Grove, MO Photo taken by John Brackman
First, the basics.
While walking the trail sounded interesting, I had never even visited the trail. So, I convinced my wife, Ruth, and oldest son Andy to visit parts of the trail from Clinton to Sedalia, the stretch that I decided I would attempt first.
While visiting the trailheads and parts of the trail in the early spring, we all found the trail as advertised - generally flat, with a small pebble-rock base and what looked to be lots of trees overhanging the walkway.
Once the family visited the trail, they grew interested and were happy to offer me assistance driving to and from the towns if I needed transportation both starting a section of trail and ending a section. I was beginning to decide that I would probably try walking a section a day and then returning another day to walk another section.
While some people do walk the trail in one continuous walk, from beginning to end, I decided that would not be practical for me. Also, by visiting the trailheads and reading the information signs, I started to get an idea of the nominal length between trailheads, and that would be the distance I needed to train for if I was going to be successful.
Walking the sections in non-sequential order to complete the whole trail is valid. It also gives you some options on which section you may want to walk at any given time or season.
Trail between Rocheport and McBlaine, MO Photo taken by John Brackman
For instance, I chose to walk the Rocheport-to-McBaine section during the late fall when the leaves would be in their fall colors.
Shoes were the next item.
Having never been a professional hiker, I visited a reputable shoe store and asked the clerk for recommendations. We settled on a pair of leather New Balance shoes that were comfortable and we made sure they fit my feet properly. I utilized that pair of shoes for the entire trail and never had an issue.
I broke them in by “practice walking” the month before I set out on the trail in earnest.
The next thing I decided to do was find a place where I could “practice walk” the
distances that mimicked the trail.
I chose the Longview Lake trail in Kansas City which is about seven miles from my home. It has a similar track, is marked every two-tenths of a mile and is long enough that I could eventually walk a ten-mile length and still return home when I finished.
I found that an average trailhead-to-trailhead length was approximately 11 to 12 miles. Some are shorter, but a couple of them are 15 miles - so I decided that if I could walk 10 miles, I would probably be able to walk any distance required.
I began in April of 2017 “practice walking” in anticipation of beginning my Katy Trail journey in May. I would drive out to the lake and begin my first walk, limited to four miles.
White Tailed Deer by Green Ridge, MO Photo taken by John Brackman
During that month I would return a couple of times a week and increase the length by a mile or two each day. Eventually, I walked the 10 miles I had envisioned, and during these walks I started carrying my camera and a backpack with water, spare socks, and other items I felt would be necessary.
I also found that I would normally walk about three miles in an hour before stopping to rest for about 10 minutes, taking off both my shoes and socks, and letting my feet “breathe.” That was a stipulation that I continued during my Katy Trail walks and which always gave me and my feet relief.
The final thing that the practice walks told me was how about long it would take to complete an average walk of 10 to 12 miles. Since I had decided that I would walk a section a day (trailhead-to-trailhead), I began to plan and enlist help for getting to the starting trailhead and how to return home from the day’s ending trailhead.
Eventually, as the sections of the trail got further away from home, I would find a bed-and-breakfast inn along the trail.
End of trail at Clinton, MO Photo taken by John Brackman
I then planned several two-day walks for which I negotiated with the owner of a B&B to pick me up at the ending trailhead and then drive me to the next beginning trailhead - which meant that the bed-and-breakfast would be somewhere approximately in the middle.
I found the bed-and-breakfast owners to be gracious in fulfilling this service and I always made arrangements at least a week in advance and paid them for their courtesies. A side note: the trail is very busy during the summer and these places can fill up fast. The sooner you contact the owner about your proposed arrangements, the better chance you will have in obtaining both a room and a ride.
I began walking the trail on May 9, 2017 and completed the walk on May 11, 2018. The walk was actually split into two “legs”, with the first leg being completed the first year and the second leg being completed the following year.
I completed the trail from Clinton to McKittrick in 2017 for my first leg and finished the second leg from McKittrick to St. Charles in 2018. The reason for this was that I tried to only walk during good weather - not too hot or not too cold. Some parts of the trail are not shaded and can be brutal in hot weather.
St. Charles, MO trail in the distance. Photo by John Brackman
Also, the trails’ bathrooms are usually not open until April, and then are closed in November. That’s important for a walker because there are no other restroom facilities on the trail, and a 12-mile walk may take upwards of five hours.
Also, the trail from McKittrick to St. Charles is closer to St. Louis, and walking that section required a strategy that put me in the St. Louis area for the final push to the finish.
In 2017 I walked 15 days, beginning in Clinton.
I walked in May, June, September and October because the weather was mild. I also walked on July 31st because the weather that day was conducive for a walk. I tried to plan around rain and was largely successful, as I was only rained on during one walk, even though that day was supposed to be sunny.
My last walk in 2017 was on October 26th. As I mentioned, I wanted to see the fall foliage between Rocheport and McBaine, where the trail follows the bluffs along the Missouri River.
Bluffs between Rocheport and McBaine, MO Photo taken by John Brackman
Beginning again in 2018 at McKittrick, which is about 71 miles from St. Charles, I calculated it would take about six days to complete. I decided to do this in continuous days of walking because we would be staying in the St. Louis area.
So, in May of 2018, I enlisted the help of my wife to assist in my completion of the Katy Trail walk.
Luckily, we have family members in the St. Louis area so we utilized this time to also visit them. We booked a motel in Chesterfield which became my wife’s “home” for a few days while I finished the trail. For the last four days of my walk, she would drop me off and pick me up at the various trailheads.
As you probably have discerned by now, I relied heavily on my family to help me accomplish this walk. However, I found that once I started this endeavor, they became solidly behind me and encouraged me to continue; for at times the endeavor seemed to become a “slog.”
I am also very grateful to my Jefferson City friends for helping me out and to the B&B owners who went out of their way to assist me. I especially want to commend Jerry at the Katy Junction B&B in Pilot Grove who even dried my clothes after I got caught in the rain on my walk, and Kenny and Missy Stevens, owners of the Doll House B&B in Rhineland who graciously assisted me twice in picking me up at one trailhead and dropping me off at another.
Some Tips:
1. Shade: The trail is generally shady but there are some long stretches that are not. The Clinton to Calhoun stretch is one of them.
2. Trail: The trail is generally flat but there also are some long stretches that feature gradual inclines.
3. Noise: No matter where on the trail that you walk, there is always some man-made noise from adjacent areas, such as airplanes flying overhead, or vehicles and (especially irritating) motorcycles on the roads. Even the most remote part of the trail from Rocheport to Jefferson City is not immune.
4. Internet: Most of the trail has internet access, which is handy as I could usually find my location using Google Maps. Probably the trail between Rocheport and Jefferson City has the least cellular accessibility because of its remoteness. I utilized Verizon and an iPhone-7+.
5. Benches: These are few on the trail unless you’re close to a trailhead. Generally, there are more benches on the trail closer to the larger towns like Sedalia. (Note: I discovered that a bridge works well in place of a bench when I stopped for my breaks.)
6. Bathrooms: As mentioned previously, there are no restrooms on the trail except at trailheads and most of these are portable toilets.
Trail between Portland and McKittrick, MO Photo taken by John Brackman
7. Cyclists: Cyclists “own” the trail and depending on where you are and what day of the week, you will see many more cyclists than walkers. The exception are large towns where many locals walk (and run) the trails. Weekends are busiest. Generally, cyclists are friendly and helpful. More than once while I was taking a break, a cyclist asked if I needed help. The trail from Clinton to Sedalia, and from Tebbetts to Portland also allows horses, but I didn’t encounter any during my walk; probably because most of my walks were on weekdays.
8. Check the Missouri State Parks website: There is much good and timely information regarding what to carry and it also will include trail condition updates. While walking by yourself is not recommended, I did exactly that because I couldn’t find a partner who met my schedule or have the time available. However, there was always someone in my family who knew where I was going to walk and the approximate time I would complete my walk. Also, that is another reason to keep a cell phone handy.
9. Seasons: I walked during both the spring and fall and I discovered that I much preferred the spring because of the animal activity and the spring flowers. I enjoyed the fall colors but by then, many animal species are migrating and for most, the mating season is complete.
Copperhead snake on the trail just east of Marthasville, MO Photo taken by John Brackman
10. Camera: I love photography, especially animal and plant photography, and there are numerous opportunities to photograph both. You never know what’s around the corner. Just after I stopped to eat one day, a deer stepped onto the trail less than 50 yards away from me. Another time I found a four-foot copperhead snake sunning itself on the trail (I took a wide berth.) However, I later discovered when looking at the pictures I took of him, that he had a snail attached to him, hitching a free ride.
11. Backpack: I carried a backpack with minimal items to keep the weight down. I carried a Katy Trail map, a first-aid kit, a whistle (I didn’t use it, but it was recommended by the parks department website), a phone charging battery and cable, spare socks, a small towel, a backup camera battery, a snack and/or sandwich and enough water to last for the time I estimated that I would be on the trail. I also carried sunglasses and a visor which I normally wore. The small towel was useful for wiping off my face as I sweat. (Note: After hiking 12 miles with a backpack on, I gained a new appreciation for the Civil War soldiers who were asked to walk for 25 miles over uneven terrain with a full knapsack - and then fight a battle.)
12. Bugs: When you’re walking, you will be pestered by gnats as they are attracted by your sweat and fly directly in front of your face – they’re why I found sunglasses to be essential. Also, occasionally large bees will fly around you and they make an unmistakable buzzing sound.
Old Katy trail tracks at Sedalia, MO Photo taken by John Brackman
13. Sedalia: There is an oddity about the trail in Sedalia. The trail from Green Ridge to Sedalia ends at an excellent trailhead in the city’s downtown district. However, going on to Clifton City the trail meanders through the city and then onto a road where it finally becomes the actual trail again. For some reason I never found this out and when my brother-in-law dropped me off, it was at the location of original train track which I discovered had not been converted. Nevertheless, I also walked this section for about a mile when I returned to the completed section of the trail.
14. Bed & Breakfast facilities: I stayed at four different B&Bs during my walk and usually found them to be pleasant. Dinner was always on-your-own, so I always made sure there was at least one restaurant somewhere easy to walk to. Unlike you’re a biker, you’re limited how far you can reasonably go after a long hike. Breakfast was always plentiful and, as mentioned before, the owners are there for your assistance and comfort.
Blue Heron at Diana Bend Conservation Area with a fish in its mouth Photo taken by John Brackman
15. Odds & Ends: If you’re wondering, the final tally of the steps I took to complete the entire trail was around 450,000 steps. I kept a log on my phone of steps, number and approximate paces of benches, the general condition of the trail I took that day (level, shady, uphill, etc.) and gave it a rating from one to ten. I also carried a single lens reflex camera with a telephoto lens. I find this to be much better than a phone for close-up shots, although the newer phones will capture most animals and plants very well.
To learn more about the Katy Trail State Park, go to https://mostateparks.com/park/katy-trail-state-park
Happy Trails.
John Brackman is a member of the Jackson County Historical Society Board of Directors.